Upbeat online reviews and positive word-of-mouth have filled The Little Dipper’s tables over its seven years in Wilmington’s restaurant scene. Recently, those factors also brightened the fondue restaurant’s luster nationally.

In December, The Little Dipper was among 10 Wilmington restaurants included on Open Table’s Diners’ Choice 100 Best Restaurants for 2011. Then, in its December 31 Adventure and Travel piece on Swiss fondue, the Wall Street Journal included a list of five eateries serving “exceptional fondue” in the U.S. The Little Dipper was there, along with fondue spots in New York, Chicago, Vail, Colo. and San Francisco.

Quite a tribute to an unpretentious restaurant that has quietly built a specialty menu and a loyal following since it opened in July 2005. Except during the worst of the recession, when people were looking for “discounts and deals,” as co-owner Kristen Gruodis puts it, The Little Dipper has steadily built upon a concept that was a winner from the beginning. Its best years so far have been 2010 and 2011.

“Fondue is a family tradition,” Gruodis said. “My family enjoys fondue every Christmas.”

She and her husband, Pete, introduced friends Justin and Bekah Smith to fondue some years ago when the four were in Charleston, S.C. “It was the most fun dining experience,” Justin Smith said.

The four decided to open a fondue spot in Wilmington, and “roped in” another couple, Justin’s cousin Malcolm Warner and his wife Shannon. The group found a vacant, run-down restaurant space at 138 S. Front Street and gutted it. Seven months later, they were in business. They have tweaked but have not fundamentally changed their operation since then.

Because a fondue meal requires a relaxed pace - diners plunge each morsel into cheese or chocolate, and cook each mouthful of meat in hot liquid before dipping it in sauce - the ambience is important. The Little Dipper’s owners tried to balance coziness with light and formality with funkiness. On-line patron reviews often mention the spot’s romantic, welcoming atmosphere, which includes a large deck where light meals are served during warmer weather.

“There’s a romantic element, but there’s also a party feeling,” Justin Smith said.

Open Table, Trip Advisor, Urbanspoon and Yelp give The Little Dipper four-and-a-half stars. The Little Dipper’s place on Open Table’s “best restaurants” listing is derived from the strength of reviews on that reservations website.  Since The Little Dipper’s owners never heard from the Wall Street Journal, they believe that the newspaper’s mention of their restaurant is due to its high on-line ratings.

In those reviews, many Little Dipper diners mention the attentiveness of their servers.

“Kristen and Bekah have hired a staff that is knowledgeable and personable,” Smith said. “Our servers are artists that provide just the right brushstrokes for the fondue experience. Because many people have not had fondue before, the servers need to interact with customers to explain the process, make recommendations and check-in to make sure things are going smoothly.

“[On one hand] some experienced servers who are fast and efficient just don’t fit in here. On the other hand, we’ve hired people with no waiting experience but great interpersonal skills, and they have done very well,” he said.

Just as a successful fondue meal depends on timing, on having just the right combination of sauces and on pairing the food with the right beverages, running a smooth restaurant operation depends on having a team that’s in balance. In the case of The Little Dipper, each owner brings a specific expertise to the pot, but shares the common vision.

“This is our livelihood, but also our passion,” Gruodis said.

Correction: This version corrects the spelling of Kristen Gruodis' name.