In the small town of Degollado, Mexico, brothers Miguel and Ramón Villaseñor grew up riding in their father, Enrique’s, food truck, both learning unique skills along the way. While Ramón perfected his mother’s seasoning and secret recipes used in his father’s sauces, Miguel gained insight into entrepreneurship and business management.
After immigrating to the United States in 1994, with stints working at local Mexican restaurants, the two decided to follow in their father’s footsteps, except this time with four walls and no wheels.
From their first venture in the area to their continually expanding footprint, the Villaseñor brothers haven’t slowed down since moving to Wilmington.
The brothers first opened a Los Portales Supermercado grocery store on South Kerr Avenue and by 2007 expanded their offerings with the opening of nearby casual restaurant Taquería Los Portales.
“My father always taught us to be your own boss,” Miguel Villaseñor said. “You miss things from your own country, and we were like we need this in Wilmington, a place to get bread, ingredients, meat, the way we do it in Mexico. That’s why we started the supermarket and the taqueria.”
At Taquería Los Portales, Mexican street tacos showcasing a variety of meats, such as steak, chicken and chorizo but also cheek, buche and tripe, combined with regional-specific dishes lent coveted authenticity, with its popularity eventually resulting in three locations across Wilmington.
Today, the brothers have expanded their offerings to showcase an elevated, international menu with the addition of Tequila Comida & Cantina in Monkey Junction and a new Tequila Comida & Cantina location slated to open early fall in downtown Wilmington near the Port City Marina.
“Los Portales has authentic street tacos, tacos you will find on the street or from the taco truck. Tequila Comida is authentic Mexican food, but Ramón went to culinary school so there are techniques from France and Mexico,” Miguel Villaseñor said. “Ramón went to Jalisco and Oaxaca and picked dishes from states presented from a unique, upscale way of his recipes.”
Tequila Comida’s French influence is obvious, with an unexpected baguette presented as a courtesy appetizer to diners. Ramón Villaseñor refining his techniques within the Cape Fear Community College culinary program now results in a breadth of Mexican dishes melded with an international fusion of flavors.
Diners can expect the familiar offerings of fajitas, arroz con pollo and street tacos, yet Miguel Villaseñor suggests challenging one’s palate when dining at Tequila Comida. Mezcal salmon marries smoky and sweet; hibiscus sauce adds floral notes to fish dishes. Miguel Villaseñor’s recommendations include the Cochinita Pibil, a dish of slow-roasted pork braised in earthy yet peppery achiote, orange juice, lime and peppers, or the simplistic yet flavorful Tacos Al Pastor, reflective of Los Portales.
“People want to find chimichangas, quesadillas, fajitas, when you show them something new, you’re letting them try that. Sometimes people are scared to try certain dishes, but once they do, they see, it’s really good,” he said.
Diners can taste their way through the Mexican states of Sinaloa, Guerrero and Oaxaca with dishes of deep-fried octopus tentacles, pan-seared mahi-mahi marinated in chile guajillo and ancho, or smoky pollo al mezcal. Tequila Comida also offers molcajetes, which are hot stone mortars filled with the choice of tierra (chicken, steak, chorizo) or mar (fish, scallop, shrimp) in a base of Mexican vegetables and sauces.
The brother’s next projects are to open a second, 7,000-square-foot Los Portales Supermercado store on Carolina Beach Road and a second Tequila Comida with waterfront views in downtown Wilmington.
The ample downtown space – in the building next to Marina Grill – will fit 150 seats and two floors to allow a large-scale reinterpretation of Tequila Comida’s flagship location. The brothers hope to lean into the nightlife atmosphere of downtown, including a second-floor tequila library with a separate menu of small plates, snacks and appetizers.
“The tequila library will be a place you can go and enjoy our really nice selections of high-end tequila or have a mezcal drink, even if you finish eating and just want to go up there and lounge. We are hoping to close later at this location and include live Latino music on the weekends,” Miguel Villaseñor. said. “One big wall will represent a jimador, the farmer who harvests agave plants from the ground. In the next two weeks, we are going to drive to Mexico for decorations, for things you can only find in Guadalajara. We’ve been doing this for a long time.”
The Villaseñor brothers have seen plenty of success with their ventures in Wilmington, and perhaps for the reasons listed above.
Throughout the years, Los Portales Supermercado has expanded its offerings to include items from Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and more, with butcher, bakery and tortilleria areas on-site.
“We never expected to be in the place we are right now,” Miguel Villaseñor said about their growth. “Sometimes at night, I think, ‘We have all these businesses and places; we did this much.’ It’s hard to believe, and we’re so thankful for our employees.”