A St. Patrick’s Day soft opening for downtown’s newest restaurant turned out to be a profitable move.

With little fanfare Smoke on Saturday started serving house-smoked meats, comfort-food sides and homemade desserts along with 40 beers on tap at the full bar.

Crowds noticed the debut and came inside, Smoke co-owner Harry Pallas said.

Smoke fills 21 N. Front St., between Market and Princess streets. The location previously hosted Rum Runners piano bar and, most recently, the short-lived Mediterranean restaurant Marrakesh.

From-scratch food is served cafeteria style on a line at the restaurant’s rear, making ordering and service quick, Pallas said.

“Five minutes and you’re done,” he said.

Patrons may select their choice of meats ($4.95 to $11), sides ($2 for one side, $3 for two sides) and dessert ($3). The menu includes brisket, chicken, ribs, collards, mashed potatoes, sweet potato casserole, macaroni and cheese, banana pudding and pecan pie.

Lunch and dinner is served, and brunch is planned, Pallas said.

Two large dining rooms filling one side of the restaurant and a bar on the other side sport a retro-cool, artsy look with mod furniture and works by artists from inside and outside of Wilmington.

Live entertainment is coming, Pallas said, hence a raised VIP area hosting a sofa, comfy chairs and a large, silver ice bucket. A regular reggae Sunday launches March 24, and an ’80s night with a DJ spinning vinyl records is coming soon, Pallas said.

Smoke’s hours are 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. daily.

Pallas owns Smoke with his wife, Kelly, and chef Matt Rodney. Rodney has been manning stoves at the Pallas’ first downtown venture, Nick’s Diner, which opened in summer 2011 at 127 N. Front, just a block away from Smoke.

The couple is also working on Dirty Harry’s Burritos, a Mexican-themed casual restaurant in what was The Eat Spot, 34 N. Front St., across the street from Smoke.